Dressmaking system.



E. Ai BENNETT.

DRESSMAKING SYSTEM.

vAPPLICATION FILED iULY 9, 1914.

THE COLUMBIA P LKNGORAPH CD.. WASHING'NJN. D. C.

A i ,C

EL13A`A. BENNETT, OF DEXTER, IOWA..

:DnEssMAKING SYSTEM.

Speccation of Letters Patent.

Patented May 23,1916.

Appiieation filed J'ny 9, Y1914..A seriaino. 850,038.Y

My invention relates to improvements in dressmaking systems so that anywoman, without special instructions in dressmaking, can cut and t ladiesand'ch'ildrens garments, and'at the same time insure a perfect lit. v

My object is to provide improvements in dressmaking systemslrequiringbut simple and inexpensiveapparatus for cutting and fittingthe garment. I attain this object'fby the devices illustrated in theaccompanying drawings, in which.: j

yFigure 1 shows one of the pattern strips of material, as used in mysystem, .with a front waist pattern'drawn thereon. Fig. 2 shows asimilar strip of material with a backwa-ist pattern drawn thereon, andFig. 3 shows another somewhat similar str ip of material, showing themethod of cutting a sleeve of a garment by my system. Y

I have illustrated my method of cutting three patterns for a waist,namely the'front,

back and sleeve patterns, the method of cut- Y ting the sleeve patternbeing the onewhich more fully illustrates the method and devices uponwhich I wish to obtain a patent. It is also to be understood that mymethod is not to be limited to the three patterns illustrated but may beapplied to any patterns that may come within the scope of my invention.Y y n When it is desired to cut the three patterns for a waist, as justdescribed, I lfirst provide three strips of paper or any other similarmaterial, one for the front, about twenty inches wide and twenty-fiveinches long, provided with a horizontal line 10-11 about four inchesfrom the top and extending from the center to the right hand edge of thepaper (Fig. 1). I provide another strip for the back pattern, twentyinches wide and twenty-one inches long, with a horizontal line 12-13,extending from the center to the left hand edge and about six inchesfrom the top (Fig. 2'). I provide a third striprfrom which a sleevepattern is to be cut, about twenty inches wide and twenty-eight incheslong7 and provided with a vertical, central line let- 15, and ahorizontal line 16-17, about eight inches from -3 thetop-edge of saidstrip.

' Before attempting to draw the pattern l.

on the sheets that I have provided,`I meas-` ure a horizontal lineacross the chest, at the 'I i junction of the neck of the person, towhom the garment is to be fitted from outside shoulder point to outsideshoulder point, and then measure one down the center front from thejunction of the neck to the waist line, then one down the center of theshoulder and o ne from directly under the arm to the waist l1ne and onedown the center of the back and one straight across the back,

approximately four inches below the neck. Y ,Y I also measure ahorizontal line around the arm at the point where the lowest part of asleeve joins the body of a waist. All measurements must be taken just asthe garment is wanted to t. If some parts are wanted loose and otherstight, the measurements must be taken that way. n

To draw a diagram of the front waist pattern, I take on the line 10-11 adistanceV equal to one-half of the line drawn across the chest at rthejunction ofthe neck.A It will thus be seen that I have formed on thestrip of paper indicated in Fig. 1 a foundation, which corresponds tothe vline drawn across the chest of the wearer to whom the garment is tobe tted. It will be seen that other measurements may be transferred fromthek wearer to the pattern, using the said line as a foundation. Theright hand edge of the strip of paper from which the pattern is to becut serves as a second foundation line, from which measurements may betaken, and corresponds to the line which is drawn down the center frontfrom the junction of the neck to the waist line.

A point is taken above the line 10-11 at i L10,'which point is spacedfrom the right hand edgeof the paper in Fig. 1 a dis-kY tance equal tohalf the circumference of the neck at the junction with the head. Thepoint 40 is spaced above the line 10-11 equal to the distance from theline drawn across ythe chest to the line drawn down the center shoulder.A curved line is then drawn from the point 40 downwardly toward theVline 10-11 and laterally toward the righthand edge of the paper. A point41 is marked on the paper above the line 10-11 to the left of the point40 a distance equal to the distance from the neckto the point of theshoulder.

The point 41 is c spaced above the line 1'0-11 a distance equal A -lineis drawn from the to the distance from the line drawn across the chestupwardly to the point of the shoulder.y The difference in the distanceVfrom the point 41 to the line 10-11 and-the distancefrom the point 40kto the line 10-11 is the shoulder drop. A point 42 is marked onthe paperbelow and to `the left of the line 10-11 at a distance from therighthand edge of the paper equal tothe distance lbetween the line drawndown the center front' of the person to be fitted to the upper end vofthe line under the arm.

The armscye is determined by the distance from the line drawn across thechest to the last described line. vA line is drawn from the point 42almost substantially horizontally toward the righthand edge of the papera .distance equal to half the 'distance from the point 42 to a linespaced verti-v cally downwardly from the point 10, or about two inches,and the line is then curved upwardly to the point 10. A point 43 ismarked at the righthand edge of the paper at a distance below the line10-11 equal to the distance from the line drawn across the chest-.t0 thewaist line in front; Appoint 44 is marked onthe paper spaced from therighthand edge thereof, adistance equal to the distance from the centerfront along the waist line, to a line drawn downwardly underneath thearm, plus about four inches for fullness. The amount allowed forfullness may be varied as may be desired. Y

The point 44 .is located belowthe point 42 a distance equal to thelength of the line drawn from under the arm to the waist line. l point42 to the point 44 and from the point 44 to the kpoint 43. Thelastdescribed line may be curved downwardly somewhat as desired.

The patternfor the back of the waist is obtained in a similar manner andthere is measured on the line 12-13, beginning at the lefthand edge ofthe sheet, a distance equal to one-half the length of the line drawnstraight across the back about four inchesy below Vthe neck, and theleft hand edgeJ ofthe sheet of paper in Fig. 2 corresponds to the linedrawn down the center of the back. For the purposes of the illustration,it is assumed that the measurement just made is equal to the length ofthe line 12-18.

On Fig. 2y I have indicated the lower end 1 shoulder is indicated at 49.The upper part of the center of the back of the neck is indicated at 50.

For drawing the sleeve pattern Ik have used a -strip of paper similar tothat illustrated in Fig. 3, having a vertical line 14-15 and ahorizontal line 16-17 thereon. I mark on the line 16-17 points 16 and17, at equal distances from the line 14-15, having a space between themequal to the circum-v terns are then cut from the paper according to theoutlines as shown by the dotted lines in Figs. 1 and 2. To form the topof the sleeve pattern I pin the front and back patterns together atunder arm, with the front pattern at the right with its righthand edgeparallel kwith the righthand edge vof the sleevepattern sheet. Thefronty and back pattern are so placed on the sleeve pattern sheet thatthe lower end ofthe curved part of the'line 10-42 is at Vthe point 17with the line 41-40 extending substantially horizontally toward therighthand edge of the sleeve patterntsheet, and the pain '46 on theback: pattern isradjacent to the point 42, while the line or edge 46-45is along the line or edge 42-.44 A line is then drawn from the point 17to the sleeve pattern sheet, or a point corresponding with the point 42on the front pattern and is continued along the line 46-13 to a point at24. The point at 24 is locatedV abovev the line 16-17 a distance equalto one-half the` distance from the point 46 to the point 49. A curvedline is then drawn upwardly and inwardly to the point 1S. I then'unpinthe waist pattern and place the front pattern with the lower part of thecurved part of the line 10-46 over the point 16 of the line 16-17 andposition the pattern so that the lower right rhand corner will beapproximately two inches from the line 14-15. I then draw a line on thesleeve pattern sheet yfrom the point 16 upwardly following the outlineof the line 10e-42 to a point 29, which is located above the line 16-17,the same distance as the point 24 and then remove the front and backpattern and draw a curved line from the point 29 to the point 18, ahorizontal line' 30is drawn below the line 16-17 and the line 30 isspaced from the line 16-17 a distance equal to the distance from theline drawn around the arm to the hand. The length of the line 30 isdetermined by Ineasuring loosely around the hand. The lines 31 and 32are drawn from the points 16 and 17 to the ends ,of the line 30. Halfthe hand measure plus one inch is placed on the lefthand side of theline 18-.15, and half the distance less one inch is placed on `therighthand side, as shown in Fig. 3.. This gives me the outline for theupper portion of the sleeve pattern and when dravvn as I have describedand illustrated the pattern may then be cut out and the parts placedtogether in their proper relation to each other and a perfect it Willthus be obtained.

It is to be understood that the lines 30, 31 and 32 of the sleevepattern are found in the usual vvay. y

Thus it Will be seen that I have obtained a very simple, practical andinexpensive method of cutting garments, Which can be readily understoodby the average person.

What I claim is:

1. In a device of the class described, the method of laying out patternscomprising the superposing upon a strip of flexible material, having avertical, central foundation line and a second line dravvn transverselythereto, near the top of said strip, of a front and a back patternsecured together and superposed on said strip with certain predeterminedpoints in said patterns over certain predetermined points in certainportions of sald lines ascertained by measurement of the person litted,said front and back patterns vvhenthus superposed forming an outlinefrom Which certain portions of a third may be taken.

2. In a device of the class described, the

method of laying out apattern comprising the superposing on a strip offlexible material having a vertical central foundation line and a secondline drawn transversely thereto, near the top of said strip, of a frontanda back pattern securedtogether and superposed on said strip, withcertain predetermined points in said patterns over I gether in agarment.

Des Moines, Iowa, June 19, 1914.

' ELLA A. BENNETT. Witnesses:

ED. L. NoL'rE, S. S. Srr'rING.

Copies of this patent may be obtained for ve cents each, by addressingthe Commissioner of Patents, Washington, D. C.

